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Hash, not a dish people make much any longer, I suppose since it requires a few slices of leftover roast and a spot of gravy. Too bad, though, because it’s a real treat and both the roast and the hash are so simple and satisfying to make. I braised a beef pot roast yesterday and made sure to squirrel away the leftovers so we could enjoy a little hash for Sunday lunch today. Finely diced meat sauteed with aromatic vegetables until deeply browned with a fine, rich glaze… John and I each enjoyed ours alongside an over-easy egg, while Nathan downed his with slabs of warm bread. The perfect Sunday-studying restorative (for him), Sunday New York Times-companion (for us), we’re all set for the rest of the afternoon. (Recipe posted in comments, below.)
Unfortunately it’s a rather sad day as well, the 5th Anniversary of the passing away of John’s best friend, Andrew Cohen. Andrew was a major foodie, way before being “a foodie” was common or easy – the weirder the food, the better, of course – so I think of him often, especially as I get particularly jazzed about something I’m cooking, knowing he would dig it completely (he was a blast to cook for). We sure do miss him. Blah.
Well, on that note, enjoy and appreciate your loved ones on a beautiful Sunday.
I've had plenty of canned corned beef hash in my life - fried up crispy, it's pretty damn good. But this will blow that away, and you might have a hard time going back...
We love hash, Stephanie, but I've only ever served the Mary Kitchen variety from a can. This looks like a much more enjoyable way to savour it with my family!
A Good Hash
Adapted from The Tenth Muse, My Life in Food by Judith Jones
Serves 2
2 Tbsp. butter
2 fat shallots or 1 small onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
½ large green or red bell pepper, chopped
2 or 3 small mushrooms (optional), chopped
2 medium russet potatoes, diced small (1/4 inch)
About 8 oz. cooked beef, lamb, pork, corned beef, or poultry, cut into small dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ c. lamb, beef, veal, or chicken stock (or even better, gravy)
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
Melt the butter in an 8-9-inch skillet and sauté the shallots, celery, bell pepper, and mushrooms (if using) until almost soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the potatoes and the meat, and season with salt and pepper to taste. When everything is beginning to sizzle, pour in the stock (or gravy), and cook over low heat, partially covered, about 10 minutes. Turn the hash over with a spatula, and cook, uncovered, another 5 minutes or so. By now the liquid will have evaporated and a crust should be forming on the bottom. When it is browned to your liking, turn the hash over again and brown the other side. Serve with parley sprinkled on top.
Judith’s note: it is always important to include some aromatic vegetables, to lend moisture and just a touch of sweetness, which helps to encourage the glazing. I sometimes include a little finely chopped carrot or parsnip or white turnip – whatever I may have on hand. It came as a surprise to me to learn from Julia that a good hash needs some stock or even gravy, if you have it, not only to keep it from drying out but, as with the vegetables, to form the slightly crusty glaze.
Thanks sweetie, you're the best...
I'm so sorry for you and for John, my dear friend. :-(